"Experiences in Nepal ", by Nathàlia Beulas

Foto Vivències al Nepal 2008

Always dreamed to know Nepal and its great Himalaya.I imagined many things, but when I was there... I had one of the most beautiful experiences of my life!The first night in Kathmandu, there was full moon, this was a good start!

On 31 March 2007, leaving Barcelona on an expedition, "Expedition Laudio Tarragona-to-Lumbier Kangchenjunga" by acclimation to a base camp of Everest and reaching several peaks, including the Island Peak of 6,189 meters.This was formed by 18 people, including two guides: Oscar Cadiach and Iñigo de Pineda.

We also had the experience of three northern expedition: Patxi Goñi, Julen requests and Fernando Rubio.These, along with Oscar and Iñigo, stayed a month and a half more to reach the third highest in the world, Kangchenjunga, from 8,586 meters.

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The arrival in Kathmandu, capital of Nepal, was chaotic.It is a very poor city, the streets of the center, the more travel, the road was broken, there was trash everywhere, and a lot of people always anywhere, walking, calling, offering us to buy things, sitting on the floor or simply by doing nothing, but they were there.There are lots of stores and shops where you can buy everything, guapíssima clothes, necklaces, bracelets, maps, posters, tea, incens and there are shops specializing in clothing and mountain equipment.To become crazy!For these streets almost no cars circulating.There, people were very bicycle and motorbike.The road passing by outside, are two lanes, but they make three, four or five, where they want the police and says nothing.The truth is that it's a little dangerous, lucky that everyone was about 50 or 60 km / h.This makes the time to react when a vehicle is coming on his lane.

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The Nepalese are very friendly and helpful, most speak English, but there were speaking a little Spanish.Those who can afford to send children to private schools because the classes are in English.The other was the public that the classes are in Nepal.

In Kathmandu, there are very many beautiful monuments, temples are Buddhist and Hindu.They have many gods and each one has its own temple. The temple of Pashupatinath is burned on their deaths.The crematoria platforms are located on the river Bagmati.Ashes to everywhere, as any fire.

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Swayambhunath is the stupa (temple type) Nepal's largest and third largest in the world.There are the eyes of Buddha say that everything you see.

One thing that I was surprised a lot of attention was seeing the animals running through the capital.Are not dogs or cats or only cows, goats and monkeys.The monkeys are hanging electrical cables and the balconies of the houses and steal food from shops.The cows are wandering the streets of commercial and eat the garbage that are the sides of streets.And the goats usually are tied to a light pole or a fence, right next to where his master.However, in the mountains are not.There you can find only yaks (are a kind of mad Himalaya load) and the national bird of Nepal is like a partridge four times larger.

Well, you could talk a lot of Kathmandu, the truth is that, within its poverty and its chaos, is a beautiful city with a culture very strange to us.The two days we spent in the city, so we had a great time.He used to, apart from visiting temples, around the streets filled with shops and good dinners, to find us a little better, because from now viuríem together night and day for 20 days.

I think we formed a good team.From the first day to the last, we help each other, very rèiem, shared... Personally, I made good friends!.That the group was very varied.With 18 people, there were all kinds and all ages, but we connect from the first moment.This also was a good start!

The adventure began two days after arriving in Kathmandu.Here we take a small plane that took us in the middle of the mountains, to Luckla, a small village to 2.840m.high.That flight was the first adventure we had.A plane that looked like a toy and airport Luckla... a runway infarct!I had no more than 200 meters and just a stone wall.If you do not stop in time... I think that those pilots were the best pilots in the world.I should be!From that small plane, I saw Everest for the first time.

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There we began to walk, the first day about three hours.It's been a lot of rise, in fact, ever been highest.The road was very irregular, very narrow and hanging around with that slide a bit because we could all leave.But what we see there was so beautiful, so high and so big around, we could not think of anything else.

Along the way the stones were of prayer.These are rocks with carved and painted prayers and always had the left to right.And if we despistàvem the Sherpas who accompanied us care to remember it every time.His sentence is "Om Mani Padmé Hum.

The night passed in the Lodges.Lodges are cases where a family lives sherpa and make you food and give you a room to sleep.Typically, water and light are scarce . In some, they were seen as light with car batteries.The day they reach a Lodge that had water and you could rent something decent... .Obviously, we are not going through my head the idea of a good shower!If that sometimes gave us warm ourselves a little water to shower us, but those heights, just when the hot water, which usually lasted about two minutes, you'll even gelaven ideas.

The walls of the rooms were made of fullola, a part of it, were pretty good.The beds were comfortable and there was usually blankets.However, I remember passing a cold night.

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Caminàvem Every day between 5 and 10 minutes, but each time costs more effort.We were climbing in altitude and lack of oxygen began to be noticed.We had headaches and chest pressure.A night descasàvem not enough, because of the high and food was neither too wide nor too nutricional.

The food was basically rice, legumes, vegetables and pasta.Protein had only yak meat, which was quite hard and eggs.The dishes are Dhal Baht (rice with vegetables and vegetable sauce) and the Sherpa Soup (soup with vegetables and a sort of spaghetti), among others.The truth is that everything was very good.

Lodges to anything we could buy (chocolates, cocacola, beer, potato chips... .) but at very high prices.A bottle of water worth about 4 euros.

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The yak is used throughout.When is a live animal cargo and see the milk.When it is dead, the fat used to make butter and cooking.Also take advantage of caca.When it is dry and the list is the fuel for wood stoves and cooking.

Solar still time, we went to bed at 8 am, when they no longer saw anything.Sometimes we quedàvem few xerradeta to do after dinner, but it was cold, we had little light and we were tired, so sleep in the morning after because we llevàvem at 6 or 7am.to start walking again.I caught a lot of attention, that in those hours, the 6 or 7 am, the street life as if it was 12 noon.Children playing in the streets, women wash clothes in the river or where the men could and did the talk.Here, it's unthinkable!

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The children were very dirty and dressed in any way.When we saw, came running to ask for candy or chocolate.We spokesman xupaxups and pens.We did one, and it seemed that we were given the most beautiful in the world.

They face burned by the sun and the cold cut.

Are thankful, then put it well to make them a photo.

They have very factions series, but with a caress soon laughed.

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Fernando, Anna, Patxi, Remi, Xavi, Iñigo, Carina, Isabel, Nath, Paul, Alex, Jose M, Fede, Julen, Joan, Toni, Passanant, Oscar and Louis Paul.

A Luckla is where we expect our porters.While we menjàvem something and we took flight nerves, they tied two or three "petates with some strings to bring them better.The bags are petates spokesman on all equipment and material in the mountains.Each weighed between 20 and 30 kg.The doormen and porters, are the people who brings your luggage where you're.That is, all the way we did, they did but also with a weight just endured incredible tape past the head and doing all the hard neck.

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The other thing is that we spokesman good mountain boots, and many of them were with espadrilles.It was one last view, but there is a business, and "petates, earned more money.

I do not know how many or how many goalkeepers spokesman Sherpas, but were a lot.Passang was sherpa guide and send it to all others.

All Sherpas who accompanied us were always very outstanding for us all!

The first night we spent at Phakding, a very small village at 2650m, where almost no homes.Although we had not spotted anything too high!

2 / 4 and were all set to start breakfast at 7 am walk.The second day was harder!We walk over 6h stopping very Poquet.This day we enter the National Park Sargamatha (Everest in Nepalese).This day also saw the first high mountain on Kusum Kanguru of 6367m.

We went towards the Solo Khumbu valley i. ..I finally could see from far away, three "8000" together: the lhotse of 8516m (the fourth highest mountain in the world), the Nuptse of 7879m, and the last, when they leave the clouds... was the peak of the 'Everest (8848m)!It was a very emotional moment for me.I could not stop watching them!

After a moment of immense preciousness noting that we continue to Namche Bazar.

Along the way we were going caravan of yaks found.The road was very narrow, so we had to put on because we do not rock crushing.It's been a lot of print see those long horns almost t'he-rubbing your belly.

We crossed four hanging bridges.Some were a good height.Worth no more looking down!It is very moving, but... I assume they were safe!I do not spend anything I did there, even I liked, but they did acknowledge this.

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At noon we arrived in Namche Bazaar, the Sherpa capital, at 3440m.Namche is a bigger town, with shops, cafes, local Internet, and even there we find a kind of musical pub.What I liked.In half of those great mountains, it seemed illogical to meet with the people!

We were all a little estranyats, the truth is we do not expect it!

The first thing we did after lunch was calling home, sending e-mails and walk through the bustling streets! And in the evening... to make a beer at the Pub!We were going very well.

The next day, we represented that we had stayed in Namche for acclimatization.But some went to a little trip to the school that he founded Edmund Hillary.The trip turned out to be several hours, until Khunjumg at 3900m.There, apart from visiting the school, we could see, and a monastery in a cabinet, saying it's the shell of the Yeti.Then to Kunde and back to Namche.This was used to acclimatize ourselves... but was cansadíssima!

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The fourth stage of the day was tough!It seemed that each day that passed, would be harder!

In the morning we walk around 5am and we get to 3975m, but then we get off to a village for lunch at 3500m.Although after lunch, we returned to climb for about 2 hours to reach Dole at 4055m.

The road was very beautiful, but very uneven.

We crossed a forest Rhododendros, which is the typical tree of Nepal.It seemed an enchanted forest!All we'd seen, I liked!Along the way, we would find with impressive mountains.This time was the 'Ama Dablam, 6855m from.It is the most beautiful mountain I've ever seen!We also go back to the 'Everest, this time closer.Every time I was closer!

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He was so keen to see these mountains that I do not care get me soon, sleep well, passing cold walk hours and hours... Just me going to sleep thinking about what I feel tomorrow and was eager to find out.

From Dole we headed Gokyo.It was found on my first summit of the Himalaya.We walk around 8 or 9 am, or I know!Halfway we got to snow.It's been a lot of wind and thunder.

The truth is that it seemed the end of the world!Almost there are, the snow and wind we picaven and last impression a lot was heard thunder among the mountains of 8000 meters.I remember well the feeling of having frozen thighs!Do not notice me.I gave or punched me and not notice.But I thought if I was walking... I wanted to tell me that everything worked properly.

From a distance we see the village of Gokyo (4790m), but it seemed that there arribéssim ever.That day I did a long time! However, the day after it was fully recovered and ready to peak!

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The day was good.Was alone.While esmorçàvem, we could watch from the window of the lodge, the Cho-Oyu (8153m).At approximately 7:30 pmstarted the ascent of Gokyo-Ri, the 5360m.It was hard!Rise was very i. ..more height, more cost breathe.We cansàvem faster and we strive more than normal!

But worth!We made top!Up there... was the most impressive landscape I have ever seen!We were in the middle of a circle of mountains!Cho-Oyu, the Nuptse, el Everest, the lhotse the Makalu... .Take a deep breath and felt that it was one of the best days of my life!All were very happy.For many it was the first 5000.For other... were happy because we all get!

At that time I thought of the Pyrenees, when you're already at 3000m and there is nothing higher.Now it was over 5000m and surrounded by mountains was incredibly huge!It was a very beautiful!

When we were down, we headed Dragnak (4740m).Of course, we cross the glaciers of the Cho-Oyu.An on glaciers, as ice and rocks, we also found sand.During one stretch, it seemed that we were walking along a white sand dune desert.

Once I made the Gokyo-Ri, I thought everything was the way that it would be smoother.Obviously it was not!How could the thought that there would be some Himalaya soft way?I do not know what was the hardest!

The next day, at 7am in the morning and walk back!That day we walk a lot!We had to go to the valley side of the neck across the block, which is 5377m.So again be very hard!The increase was fatal, but once up... you were always with him a view so beautiful and huge and we encourage that, for a moment, you will not be forgotten tired!

There was enough snow, especially in the descent on the other side.In some places we enfonsàvem to the knees and had to go to the front steps.

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I was tired, had a cold...

Almost never aturàvem us to rest.We were trained by people with real expedition, and although they tried to go our way, we were at the end we had to go to her!

At first I thought it could not continue, but I assume that the forces get to where you really want to achieve something.I wanted it.So when I saw that it could not, stopped, breathed fund three or four times and was still ahead.

Phrase constantly reminded that one day I said: "Always up and never down to the top."

After walking around 6am, we reached Dzonglha (4800).All were quite tired!Every time you lodge a arribàvem, comentàvem taking a milk tea or black tea, we had what seemed acabàvem do.Always coincidíem: It was a killed... .however, killed a very beautiful!

Many of us were not used to walking so many hours and there were very tense moments.But among all people and we did not we ajudàvem decline.We always appreciate comments from someone when you say: Come on... that you did well!The truth is that he was happy to be there with all those people who were at that time my family, my friends... all he had to support me.

We went to Lobuche (4910).Here we relax all afternoon as it was a good snow fall and was really cold.

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At 6 o'clock we started towards gorako Shep (5125).We arrived at 8:30 pmAll the way with a horrible ventisca!Frost had the face!But there we expect another peak on Kala Patthar of 5540m.So we have a milk tea and upwards!

At 11:30 am as we were all on top.Again there is emotional moments.

We were happy, lively, there were congratulations, hugs, kisses... Those moments made us forget the not so good part of the trip!

From up there we could see l 'and the Everest Base Camp on Pumori, la Ama Dablam, the lhotse... but were beginning to cover everything very fast and we started down.

The next challenge was the 'Island Peak!

A gorako Shep were 4 of the group.We find later.Although I did not think the climb Island Peak, want to join where you can.So we return to Lobuche and then to Dingboche (4410).We walk almost 12 hours.We rebentats, although there were not!

The next day at 8am.we were going to go to Chhukung to Base Camp on the Island.Once in Chhukung, I had to return to Dingboche waiting for them.But that day we had a problem!One of us was wrong and could not continue to Chhukung.So after a quick Sandwich, few had returned to Dingboche that early to watch what was going on.There I saw something that had not ever seen and that might not come back to the van to the hyperbaric chamber!After a session of 45 minutes, went there as if nothing.At that time, I realize that we were all safe, whatever happens.

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In the afternoon they reached the 4 that had been left behind.The next day, some went to the Island, others to Deboche and we wanted a third attempt to summit the peak Nagartsang of 5083m!After 3h.we get!5000 already had three!This was satisfied.It was more than we had ever thought you could do it!

Now that I thought could have gone to the Island, but better leave it for another day!

From now on, started the way back to Namche.Deboche via Tengboche and where we visited the monastery and we saw a Buddhist ceremony.That day was January 1, 2064.Celebrating the new year!In fact, for us it was 14 April 2007.

Well, it was back to Namche.I felt that I was just sad!

There we were all together again.The group of the Island... all were top!

Successful expedition!

Now, after a rest day in Namche, sad the way back!Phakding and to Lukla, where we sleep and we returned to Kathmandu with the plane.Again nerve flying!I fear that what happened again!

The last night in Lukla, we dismiss the Sherpas and porters.They are good people!

It was back to Kathmandu.Now if that was the end.We used to see some outstanding things, shop, walk and start thinking with the return to routine life.

The marxàvem that day, when we say goodbye to being left to do... Kangchenjungadid not want to leave.

I was walking towards the plane that would take me home, but felt that I became the Himalaya!

Even I wanted to cry!During those 20 days, I spent very nice moments, moments of anxiety, fatigue, cold, joy, sadness...

But I felt feelings that I had not heard until then, as some unknown became friends with a few days, helping me, protecting me, encouraging me... .I felt good and happy together.So do not ever forget!

That country and its mountains, people, colleagues... are now an important part of my life!

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Nathàlia Beulas

K2 Guies de Muntanya
Cos del Bou 12
43003 Tarragona, Spain
Tel. (34) 607 666 306 info@k2guies.com
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