Nepal, October 2008

Chulu West
6,419m (20,505ft), the highest of the Chulus peaks
Location: Annapurna Area, Nepal
First ascent: 1952, japanese expedition


Foto Chuluwest 2008

Chulu West of the 6,419m is the highest of Chulus and was first promoted in 1952 by a Japanese expedition. There is great debate about the name and location of these peaks, because the maps do not come with the same names and heights do not match with the official data (a very common fact in Nepal). At a geographical level, the Chulu massif are four peaks divided into two sectors, the west and east, and administratively are differentiated by two different climbing licenses: the climbing permission of the west Chulu permits ascent to the peak of the same name, and Chulu Central, of 6,306 meters. From an alpinistic point of view the Chulu West is the most affordable. With its two high fields, proposes a complete learning of the high locations life and the inner matters of an expedition. Therefore, it is an ideal peak for having a first experience in the Himalayas. The Chulu Central, right besides the West one, isn't more difficult to ascent, is a little far and provides the possibility to ascend two peaks within the same expedition, if the fitness and desire accompain us...

From a technical level, rise is qualified as a PD+ (Somewhat Difficult+), ascent on snow with a short rock way (of III) in the lowest part. The ascent to this peak is better made from the base camp located in a small valley by the north of Manang, one of the main towns through which goes by the famous tour of Annapurna, and close to the La-Thorong, which, with its 5,416 meters, becomes the key point of this expedition.

Trekking-only option

This option is an alternative for those who wish to climb the Chulu. The route is the same until the Base Camp, but during the climbing days there's the option to go to Tilicho Lake, located at 5,400 m, which is one of the biggest lakes in the Himalayas. This variant is to complete a loopback to the Base Camp and to continue until the end of the trekking together with those who ascend the peak.

Route

Day 1 BCN - flight....

Day 2 Flight... - KTM

Day 3 KATHMANDU - BESHISHAHAR 760 m (by bus) - KHUDI 790 m.

Height difference: + 30 m
Time: 8 h bus + 2 h trek

Day 4 KHUDI - GHERMU 1.400 m

Difference: + 735 m / - 125 m
Time: 6 h

Day 5 GHERMU - TAL 1.700 m

Difference: + 575 m / - 275 m
Time: 6:30 h

Day 6 TAL - CHAME 2.670 m

Difference: + 985 m / - 15 m
Time: 7 h

Day 7 CHAME - PISANG 3.200 m

Difference: + 580 m / - 50 m
Time: 5 h

Day 8 PISANG - MANANG 3.540 m

Difference: + 710 m / - 370 m
Time: 8 h

Day 9 MANANG - YAK KHARKA 4.015 m

Difference: + 475 m
Time: 4 h

Day 10 YAK KHARKA - CAMP BASE 4.300 m

Difference: + 285 m
Time: 2 h

From day 11 to 15 Ascent Period

  • Day 10: Base Camp (BC) acclimatization
  • Day 11: BC - C1 (5.100 m) - BC
  • Day 12: BC - C1
  • Day 13: C1 - C2 (5.600 m) - C1
  • Day 14: C1 - C2
  • Day 15: C2 - PEAK - BC

This period may be subject to modifications depending upon the weather or mountain conditions.

Day 16 THORANG PHEDI (4.450) - THORONG-LA (5.416) - MUKTINATH 3.800 m

Difference: + 965 m / - 1.615 m Time: 7 h

Day 17 MUKTINATH - JOMSON 2.795 m

Difference: - 1.005 m
Time: 4:30 h

Day 18 JOMSON - POKHARA (flight)

Day 19 POKHARA - KTM (bus)

Day 20 KTM

Day 21 KTM - flight...

Day 22 Flight... BCN

Trekking-only option

del Day 11 to 15 Ascent Period:

  • Day 10: BC acclimatization
  • Day 11: TILICHO LAKE approximation
  • Day 12: TILICHO LAKE approximation
  • Day 13: TILICHO LAKE 5.400
  • Day 14: TILICHO LAKE - CHULU Base Camp
  • Day 15: CHULU Base Camp

Approximated price (without the flight): 1.500,00€

This price doesn't include

- The food (lunches & dinners) in Kathmandu - Intl. flight (approx. 1100,00€) - Sportive insurance

Sheduled leaving date

By October 15th, 2008

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